Text: Carolina Matheus
Photos: Iván Ceballos
A lonesome indigenous woman with wind-weathered cheeks glides silently across the cold Andean fields. She is planting. The fog rolls in, and she becomes a dark ghostly figure, against the jet -black earth. In the midst of this bleak scenario, stands out, a colorful hand bag hanging from her shoulder, the woman’s companion is her hand-sewn shigra bag, which helps her carry plants, seeds, and food.
This is a typical Andean scene which could have occurred centuries ago, or in the 20th century. This is because handbags have been part of women’s daily life since Pre-Columbian times. Archeologists have found similar handbags that are 1000 years old! Why have the hand bags withstood the test of time? This is because designers have rediscovered the Ecuadorian shigra handbag, as a practical and stylish way of carrying one’s personal belongings.
Ancient Origins
Textiles have always been paramount to Andean culture. The availability of llamas, alpacas, cotton and other natural fibers combined with predominantly cold weather, allowed the development of this art. In fact, (Andean fabrics) form the longest continuous textile record in world history! Andean inhabitants were making objects out of fiber as early as 8000 B.C. Andean textiles are at least as old as 3000 B.C. Some elaborate fabrics were considered so precious, that they were used to trade goods, and even offered as sacrifices to the sun god Inti! The shigra bag, though modest compared to other Andean textiles, is part of this tradition of creating fiber crafts.
A woman’s measuring cup?
Shigra hand bags originated as a practical article created BY women and FOR women in the Central Andean provinces of Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo. Until recent years, women used these bags to carry seeds and plants. In fact, some authors believe that the different size shigras were used as a unit of measurement. For example, a 60 centimeter size shigra, could resemble, say, the amount of quinua seeds needed to plant one acre. Something like today’s measuring cups!
No laziness allowed!
Laziness was severely punished during the Inca Empire. The Inca commanded that even on a walk from home to the village, or when pasturing sheep, or household chores, people should never be idle.Therefore, women always had to be sewing, weaving or spinning wool, even as they walked from one place to another. It is perhaps for this reason that as recently as twenty years ago, women could still be seen walking around with multicolored fibers, a needle, and a half -completed shigra hanging from their waistband while they were herding their flock of sheep!
The Elaboration Process: Natural Fibers
How do these women make the shigra? It is a process with several steps: It starts off by preparing the raw material which is a resistant natural fiber from a beautiful tree called cabuya (Agave, in English). Then, the mature leaves are sliced into long strands which must be soaked in water for 15 days in order free the fiber of pulp residue. A this point a sewing needle is used to begin the shigra, starting from an oval shaped base, and moving upwards in a swirling circular form. For those who sew, the technique is very similar to the crochet technique. Although the designs are created at the whim and imagination of each woman, over the years, some motifs have evolved. For example, some favorites are the vibrant zig -zag shapes called quingo in quichua, or chauto chaqui which resembles llama feet. Originally, the shigra was adorned with human and also some animal forms, but today the women have become more lenient towards abstract design.
The dying process
Before, the women dyed the cabuya with natural colors made from achote or other plants. However, these colors would often run, so today the colors are made from aniline in order to avoid this problem. In recent years many women sell their shigras to experts in Saquisili village. These men will finish the dying process in order to ensure a quality product. However, some of these techniques are zealously protected so that the business will not be copied!
The shigra reinvented: Innovation and Fashion
In the 1970’s several Ecuadorian and foreign artists began to value the beauty of Ecuadorian arts and crafts. The attractive multihued shigras did not go unnoticed! Several artists began to recognize the potential of this handbag. They used their creativity to explore ideas. New colors, sizes, designs, and materials such as silver, suede, and leather inlays were incorporated. What once was a utilitarian bag for indigenous women only; began to make the Ecuadorian and international fashion scene. Today, quality shigras have leather straps, no running colors, and are lined inside.
The shigra has remained an important Andean handicraft because it carries a long tradition of fabric design. It will carry on as long as artists continue to reinterpret it and value it as a versatile, and fashionable object which has an ancient story to tell.
Sources:
- Cuvi, P. Crafts of Ecuador. Quito: Dinediciones, 1994.
- Stone- Miller Rebecca et.al, To Weave for the Sun Thames and Hudson, Boston: 1992.
Personal Interviews:
- Miriam Gónzalez, Maqui, April 2008
- Personnel Folklore Olga Fisch April 2008.
Stone-Miller, Rebecca, pg 13.
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